Seollal (Korean Lunar New Year): What It Is and What to Expect
What and When
Seollal is the Korean Lunar New Year (Eumryeok Seollal), one of the country's most important traditional holidays. It falls on the first day of the lunar calendar, usually arriving in late January or mid-February. The official holiday spans three days: the day before, the day of, and the day after Seollal.
For most Koreans, the holiday is centered around family, honoring ancestors, and traveling back to their hometowns. Because it follows the lunar cycle, the exact Gregorian dates shift every year, so you will want to check the calendar well in advance if you are planning a trip.
Food and Rituals
The holiday begins with *charye*, an ancestral memorial rite where families set out an elaborate table of food to pay respects to forbearers. Afterward, the family shares a bowl of *tteokguk*, a sliced rice-cake soup in a clear broth. Eating a bowl of *tteokguk* symbolizes growing a year older in traditional Korean age reckoning.
Children and younger adults then perform *sebae*, a deep, formal traditional bow to their elders, wishing them health and good fortune. In return, elders give *sebaetdon* (holiday money) and offer words of wisdom. Many people dress up in *hanbok* (traditional Korean clothing) for these ceremonies, though modern families often opt for comfortable clothes after the photos are taken.
The Great Exodus
In the days leading up to Seollal, Seoul undergoes a massive demographic shift known as *minjok dae-移動* (the great national migration). Millions of city residents flood highways, trains, and buses to visit family across the provinces, turning the capital into a quiet, peaceful ghost town.
If you are in Seoul during Seollal, traffic will be remarkably light, but highway congestion heading out of and back into the city can stretch travel times to five or six times longer than usual on the peak departure and return days.
Traveler Tips
If you are visiting Korea during Seollal, prepare for widespread business closures. Many small restaurants, mom-and-pop shops, and local markets shut down for three days or more as proprietors travel home. However, major department stores, chain convenience stores, large supermarkets, and tourist attractions generally remain open.
Palaces, museums, and major cultural sites often host special Seollal events and offer free admission to visitors wearing *hanbok*. Book high-speed train tickets (KTX) and express buses weeks ahead if you plan to travel between cities during the holiday window.
Common questions
Are tourist spots and restaurants closed during Seollal?
Major tourist sites, palaces, and large department stores stay open, often hosting cultural events. However, many small neighborhood restaurants, traditional markets, and independent shops close for three days, so plan your meals accordingly.
Should I tip or give money as a tourist during Seollal?
No. *Sebaetdon* (holiday money) is strictly a family tradition reserved for elders giving cash gifts to younger family members in exchange for formal bows. Tipping is not practiced in Korea.